1920 Dyer Harp Guitar - Model 7 Serial # 910
Inside view of lower bout cracks
after kerfing has been removed and
the area has been cleaned up.

"X" marks the spot of an exterior
blunt force trauma on the outside
surface that caused this cracking.  
Note the markers for the beginning
and end of each crack.

These should come back together
This is the clamping of the repair
of the bottom crack after mending
the top crack first.

Wax paper was placed under a
heat formed piece of Plexiglas and
Areas of the side edges are very
thin. The current plan is to add a
cedar doubler  to the standard size
kerfing to give it some additional
So, stains are gone after a bit of
scraping with a very sharp half
inch wide chisel blade.  The right
side has not been scraped yet.

While working inside I taped a
piece of plastic, cut to size, over
the instrument label.
Well, here are those nasty water
stains to deal with.  This isn't a  
normal luthier restoration issue

Doing a little kerfing trial fit and
selecting a group of cedar kerfing
that is color matched.
The new kerfing is up top and the
original kerfing is on the bottom.

Also the entire back is now scraped
and the water stains are only a very
ugly memory.
Here the cedar strips are in, as
well as, the kerfing overlaying the
This is the actual gluing of the
strips.  You can never have too
many clamps.
This is a dry fit test of the cedar
strips with Stephen Bennett
providing inspirational background
I created some Spanish cedar
strips and bent them in the side
press and/or used the bending
Both of the cracks have been
glued back together.  A cedar rim
band and kerfing (shown below)
support the upper crack and
individual cedar cleats are used to
support the lower crack.
It's time to get these joined and  
begin work on the rosettes and top
bracing.  I received a new stash of
Adirondack brace stock as well.
As reasonably priced Adirondack
tops go, this is a keeper.  There is
one minor cosmetic defect on the left
side just below the waist and one in
the upper portion of the right side.  
The new acrylic pattern confirms that
both areas won't be an issue.

The new Adirondack top arrived
today.  Let's sand it down and see
what we have.
The new top has been joined and cut
over-sized.  I am using some stock
Dreadnought bracing to rough out
the new brace positioning.  The new
braces will be a little more beefy and
made from the Adirondack stock  
shown on the right.

The top four braces positioned in the
harp arm have been roughed out
from this new brace stock.

The white card stock shows the
footprint of the new bridge plate to
be made from Indian rosewood.
Ready to fine tune the braces on a
final pass.  This configuration is a bit
like Dreadnought bracing on steroids.  
The shape of the main body is almost
like the current day OM shape.
It is now time to remove everything that
does not appear in John's reference
The string holes have been drilled and
the template will be removed and
contouring of the bridge will begin.
The rough cut bridge blank has been
profiled to match the aluminum template.  
Double stick tape was used to hold the
template in place.  The string holes have
been located and will be drilled.

Special thanks to John Thomas, Hamden, CT.
for supplying detailed photos of his own
Dyer Model 7 bridge from several angles as
seen in this photo.

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